Roger Voss - December 2019
This Champagne, barely rosé in color, is the result of a collaboration between Olivier Leflaive of Burgundy and Erick de Sousa of Champagne. The wine is lightly structured, with a medium dosage. It is crisp, showing red fruits as well as acidity and a mineral edge at the end. Drink now.
Best of the Year 2019
More primary-fruited than others, this shows roasted pears, dried apples and a touch of bread dough. Quite frothy and simple on the palate. Drink now.
Wine and Spirits
This is a new project between Olivier Leflaive of Puligny-Montrachet and Erick de Sousa of Avize. They produce this pinot noir from the Montagne de Reims, blending it with 30 percent reserve wines matured in old Burgundy barrels. The wine is reduced at first, with a stinkiness (mercaptans) that calls for decanting to help it dissipate. When it does, the wine is full of fresh red-raspberry scents with a spicy, fennel-like note, intensely flavorful and compelling. In the end, it gives a delicate and elegant impression, in a high-acid style.
Year’s Best Champagne
Oeil de perdrix color. An attractively fresh and exuberantly fruity yet complex nose speaks of yeast, citrus peel, especially lemon, along with hints of cherry, strawberry and raspberry. There is a relatively fine mousse supporting the crisp, intense and utterly delicious flavors that are liberally laced as well with plenty of yeast character before culminating in an equally crisp finish that is drier than the stated dosage would unusually suggest. This is one of those rosés that a person could get in trouble with as it’s so delicious and refreshing that it’s borderline gulpable!